Merry Christmas

Scratch the Fox .36. I ordered two Fox .40's and bought two OS .40's and one OS .46 on ebay. I was notified that the Primary Force is on the way. I am still waiting for the long kit of the Primary Force also. The picture is of a normal size Ringmaster and the 125% version of the same model. I haven't flown the big one yet and the weather isn't helping. The first snow of the season and I got close to a foot. Another blizzard expected tonight into Sunday.

Last week, while browsing one of the forums for model airplanes, I noticed an ARF kit of the plane I want to send to LA. The price had been reduced a bit and included shipping. I bought the model and have made preparations to change a few things that need changing for safetys' sake and for longevity. I dug out an old Fox .36 that someone gave me and put it on a board to see how it runs. It started well for the mid 20's temp. and ran steady for the few ounces of fuel I put in the tank. I also dug out the newer of my Fox .35's and started prepping that one for use also. I was going to put an Enya .45 in the plane but after reading the ad for the contest, profile models are limited to .40 size engines max. I built the Acromaster and put a Fox .19 on it. I took it to the new school nearby and got in a few flights with it. It should be a usable trainer. Speaking about "after the fact". After I ordered the kit of the same plane I bought to send to LA the contact person had a death in the family. It will take a bit longer to get the kit I'm sure but it's understandable. I had the plans of the Ringmaster enlarged 125% and built another Ringmaster. Powered by a K&B .40 this time. I got engines everywhere. Now I got planes everywhere too. I built eight since last march and still managed to burn 3 gallons of fuel, 4 ounces at a time. My wife and I moved the El-Camino into the garage and started work on that. All the rubber parts need replacement including the tires. Weather stripping, body mounts, etc. That will take the longest time. I want to get the whole rubber kit at once and not piecemeal. A new crate engine is planned to replace the old 350. Tranny needs rebuilding too.
Perry Rose

After the fact, again.

I made changes to the newest planes in my fleet. The one I've been trimming flew better after moving the leadout position so I checked the other one and re-set the leadouts on that one too. I also took the tip weight out and checked and re-set the engine up and down thrust to be as straight ahead as possible on all the planes. Then I ordered a short kit of the Primary Force and a kit of the Acromaster. A couple hours later I remembered the Ringmaster and another original design I stored in the basement. I dug them out and made similar changes to those planes. Then it hit me. I could use these planes to send to LA instead of new ones. Rats. After the fact again. But on the bright side I can send these and the other two also. Just in case of a chance meeting with the ground.
Perry Rose

Vacation

The last two weeks were spent in the town of Slaughter,LA. My son lives there. Before I left I checked my modeling magazine to see if there were any flying contests when I was there. There was. A control line contest at the city park in Baton Rouge. My son and I drove around the park several times when the contest was supposed to be going on but couldn't find it. The next day we had to go to Fort Polk to deliver some furniture and went back to the park around 3pm. Still nothing. I knew that the contest CD lived a mile from my son and my wife bumped into him and set up our meeting. We talked for a while and he gave me ideas on trimming the first toy as it had a bad "hunt" when flying. I got several other ideas and noticed he had built a model with a Nobler wing like mine. Only the leadout lines on his were far forward of where mine are. We got home and I went to work on the first change to the plane. I re-did the wing tip so the leadouts matched the other plane. I also removed one ounce of tip weight. I went to the old school in Oneco and got in a short flight to test the change. I'm headed in the right direction. The plane didn't hunt. The wind was blowing too hard to try anything fancy so I packed up and went home. I figure that the aft placement of the leadouts turned the plane to the outside of the circle and created turbulence over the elevator causing erratic flight. When the wind slacks off and I can fly it again I'll be able to decide on other changes if needed. I have figured out how to get a plane to LA so I can fly or compete in the fall contest.I plan to order a Sig Primary Force A.R.F. and complete the recommended changes to the control system and hinges then pack it back up in the same box it came in and send it to LA. When I get there I'll assemble the model and it should be ready to fly.The CD, Gil, mentioned that the designer of the Primary Force sells laser cut short kits so I ordered one to build while waiting to order the ready built one. Sig also has a kit of the Acromaster, a .15 size model that sells for 23.99. This will be able to fly in my sons yard on 40 foot lines. A good trainer. All this is in the works including fixing up a 71 El Camino for the road.
Perry Rose

Newest planes

After swapping engines I got the weight and balance of the planes into reasonable range. The maple core red one is lighter than the almost all balsa yellow one. But with all the holes I drilled in the maple core I figured it would be flyable. Now it has a .45 engine and the other has the .40 size engine. The yellow one has a 54 inch wing span and 580 sq. in. at 55 ounces. The red one has 53 inch span and 554 sq. in. at 52 ounces. Monokote on the wings and stabs with Luster kote spray paint on the fuse. I painted the red one on a very humid day and it truned white with trapped humidity in the paint. Luckily after drying two days I hit it again and the new paint covered the mess quite well. The engine swap caused minor damage to the balsa triplers as I had to make cutouts for the engine holddown bolts and nuts. I even put wheel pants on the models. A first for me. Just flat pieces of plastic though, profile pants for profile planes.
Perry Rose

Time to cover and paint the toys.

A couple of weeks ago a friend of mine gave me a big bunch of balsa wood, metal parts and a box with about twenty rolls of covering material, monokote, ultrakote, etc. On the model I built second I figured to make it yellow and blue and red. There wasn't any white in the box and my stash only had a half roll. Not enough to do the model. I did have monokote and ultrakote in the same color of yellow so I figured to go with it. I must say that the ultrakote went on very well. It felt a little thicker than monokote though. I made hinges with it and assembeled the flaps and elevator. After sticking down all four wing panels, top, bottom, left and right, I got out the heat gun to shrink the covering tight. After several tries to get one panel tight I realized it wasn't going to get any tighter.Wrinkles, sags, and bags everywhere. Not acceptable. I agonized over what to do but it was clear the ultrakote had to come off. I carefully removed the covering and applied yellow monokote to the wing and stab. This time it shrunk up nice. I've been using Top Flite Monokote ever since it came out in the early 60's. It still works. I put some blue and red trim kote on the wings and stab. Then I took a good look at the fin and rudder. I just didn't look right. I sawed the fin off and made a new one of angular shape rather than round. It looks much better now. I'm up to painting the fuselage now. I was reading the forum site and one guy showed how he made a control horn from aluminum angle. He did it because his plastic horn was too flexible. The plastic horn on my modified twister is flexible. I didn't have any angle so I bent a piece of alum. 90 degrees and drilled holes and bolted it to the flaps. I got in a test flight tonight of this afternoon and what a diferance. The loops are the right size not ground to seventy degrees up. The limit is 5 feet to 45 degrees up. That was the only plane with a plastic control horn on the flaps. All the rest have metal.
Perry Rose

Latest Toys

I started building a model of the old "Chief" , the one in the middle, several weeks ago. I got the plans from England off ebay.While I was doing that I read an article on engineered wood on clstunt.com and got to thinking how about and engineered wood profile fuselage. I laminated lite ply and made a maple engine crutch and covered the whole thing with balsa.The model on the right. The wing is a Nobler unit with a different wing tip. The object waqs to make a profile fuse. that is as stiff as a built up fuse. I had a piece of maple from Woodworkers warehouse sitting nearby and I got the idea to make a profile fuse. out of that. The maple is 1/2" thick just right for a profile fuse. I cut out the fuse. core from it and rimmed it with balsa to get the shape I wanted. I then drilled many holes to lighten the thing. I built up the fin and rudder from sticks to save tail weight. Poking more holes in it. I built the wing from the Nobler root airfoil making a straight wing with no flaps to keep it simple. I sheeted the fuse with 1/16" balsa from the nose to just behind the wing and 1/32" balsa from there to the tail. I added a 3/8" balsa tripler to the left side of the nose and 1/16" ply to the right side, where the engine will mount. When I mounted the engine, a converted Fox .40, I drilled two sets of holes so I could move the engine to get the right balance without having to add nose weight. The fuse. on the table shows the fuse. drilled and sheeted on one side. Projected weight, ready to fly, will be around 40 ounces. Pretty light for a hard wood airplane I think. Most balsa planes of this size, .40 powered and 55 inch wing span, come out around 50 ounces. Now I have three planes to paint and cover. On another topic but related, there is a contest in Baton Rouge and the C.D. lives on Meadowwood Dr.
Perry Rose

Latest Toys

Weekend in Vermont

Way back when I was playing airline pilot I was based in Burlington VT. My wife went to school with a lady that had moved to the Burlington area in the late 60's. I was there a couple of years when the National Street Rod Assn. started holding a national rod show there. I ended up building the rod pictured in an earlier post in 1997. Anyway this past weekend was the annual Northeast Nationals at the Champlain Valley fairgrounds. I left Moosup friday morning and arrived around 2:30 pm that afternoon. Hot rods every where. The best weather ever. And I bought a new Lincoln 180 wire feed welder and a wiring kit for a project car this winter. My car is not too big and fitting all our stuff and the welder, which isn't that big, into it was trying at best. The vendor helped me get the welder in behind the seat. But then he had to go back in and get the s/n for the bill. He managed to shut the passenger door and jam it on the seat back. When the door was opened the cable pull to the bear claw latch failed. We made it home using the driver door. I removed the door panel and replaced the cable with a rod. I have to do the drivers door some day because it will fail also. I have a set of Dakota Digital gauges in the car and they have been updated and calibrated a couple of times. The water temp. gauge has been reading in the 150 degree range since the last calibration and I didn't place any stock in the reading. When I got home today I opened the radiator cap and stuck two analog temp. gauges in the water. They both agreed around 160 degrees. I turned on the ignition switch and the Dakota Digital gauge agreed with the other two. 70 mph going up mountains and the big Chevy 502 peaks out at 160 degrees. I didn't believe it until today.

A use for the new school

I never had a use for school new or old. But in the town of Sterling, where I was born and raised, they built a new grammar school. It's out of the way and has a paved running track about a quarter mile long and a ball field and a soccer field. The track infield is paved also for about two thirds of the infield making it ideal for flying model airplanes. I've only tried control line models so far but r/c models will work too. 3.8 miles from my house it's a no brainer. I duffed in the Twister and the Ringmaster so far. In the horizontal eight the Twister scraped the fin and canopy causing minor damage and the Ringmaster bellied in today. I don't think the balance is right on that one. It is jumpy in flight. Again minor repairs.

Taxes made me do it.

I bought a 1978 Harley-Davidson Super Glide (FX) back in 1978. Brand new. I have about 70,000 miles onit if I add up the totals on the three speedometers I've gone through. It's older than rubber mounts. Well it's really a 78 and a 1/2 model as Harley came out with electronic ignition in late 78. It has served me quite well for an AMF year Harley. A couple weeks ago I got our town tax bill and I was not happy to see that the appraised value of the bike rose from 2000 to 6000 dollars. The town is going by values it gets from some book. My 37 ford also increased but not 200% like the bike. Of course we have only one avenue of relief and that is to re-register both as "Early American" vehicles. That designation has a max. vehicle value of 500 bucks for tax purposes.And this means a trip to the CT DMV. Not a thing to look forward to. Whenever I go to buy something I manage to get the new person at the cash register. And they mess things up and have to call for help which generally is no better than the newby. That happened twice today. Once at breakfast in Norwich and again at the DMV. You can just feel the love in the DMV office. Anyway three different helpers got the price of the two class transfers down to 112.00$. I tried to keep one of the vanity plates but the newby said "were not supposed to". The vehicles just don't look right any more.

Another muffler idea

I don't know if anyone remembers what the header for an OS .61 thats made to fit an Omega pattern plane looks like. It's tilted down and back almost like a Fox tiltdown muffler. It was made this way to get around the retracting nose gear. Anyway, it was the only header that could be made to fit the Fox .45. I elongated the mounting bolt holes to the inside and ground down a washer to fit inside the pipe. The outlet hole on the stock muffler is .375 so I ran a .375 drill through the washer hole and jammed the washer into the pipe. Now the exhaust exit points at the wing leading edge. I took a piece of 3/8 copper tube and jammed it into the washer hole and the exhaust will exit under the wing. I looked at the first muffler with the straight out pipe and many holes and cut it off just above the holes. I left the washer hole alone, about 5/16 dia. and only drilled two 3/16 holes above the washer. Now I have to test them. I don't know what to expect as I've made other changes in other areas. I ordered some balsa from Lonestar and 4 gallons of 25% all castor, 10% nitro fuel from Sig. They should be coming in soon. I have to add 4 ounces of castor to each gallon to bring the oil up to 28%. That is the recommended amount of oil for Fox engines. You can't help but get a good smoke trail with that stuff.

I didn't have a picture of the new muffler for my last post so I took one.

More changes/bench trimming

I've been slowly adding tail weight to the P-51 to get more sensitive controls. I can afford to do it because of the stability. I can trade some to get the control feel I think it should have. The other day I remembered a nitro pipe set up I bought from Fox Mfg. years ago for a .40 size engine. I never used it. But now the exhaust adapter and exhaust pipe tube screw together unlike other headders that are welded. I took the assembly apart and found it would fit the Fox .45 exhaust port. Now all I need to make a very light. sort of muffler is a tube to fit into the exhaust adapter. Sort of like a tongue muffler only different. This one is free. After a short search I found some aluminum tube that I used for tuned pipe extensions on the r/c pattern planes. The tube almost fit into the threaded portion of the adapter but needed to be necked

down a bit. In my basement is a small wood lathe that has a chuck to hold small pieces of wood. I put the tube in the chuck and tightened it up. After several tightenings and fittings the tube was necked down enough to fit tightly into the exhaust adapter. Now to close up the other end of the tube. I figured the tube shouldn't be closed completely so I found a steel washer that almost fit and ground the o.d. of the washer down to make a tight fit in the tube. I used a tubing cutter to make an indent in the tube so the washer wouldn't go too far in the tube. Then I bent the end of the tube inward to capture the washer securely. I calculated the area of the exhaust hole in the stock muffler and the hole in the washer and drilled some holes in the wall of the tube above the washer to equal the area of the hole in the muffler. OOPS. A slight miscalculation on the area. Now how do I close the holes without having to make a new tube assembly.I thought about using some window screen rolled up and inserted into the tube through the hole in the washer but I couldn't get any as the neighbors were home. Then it hit me I could take a piece of a screw

clamp with the slots in it and roll it small enough to fit around the outside of the tube over the now too many holes. It worked. Making the new muffler served two purposes, it took two ounces of weight off the nose which kept me from adding weight to the tail and it reduced restriction on the exhaust which will give more power. A couple days prior to this session I got some advise on how to fix a problem I was having with the engine run when it was inverted. I was advised to lower the tank in relation to the engine. I did and it helped. I also noticed that engine vibration on the plane was causing air bubbles in the fuel feed line to the engine. Now how do I insulate the tank from the vibration and keep it adjustable. The original setup has a slotted arangement that is bolted to the plane. I made a metal tray with many holes instead of slots and hooks to rubber band the tank to the tray. I glued a piece of foam padding under the tank and when I test run the engine to check the muffler there were no bubbles in the fuel line.

Fox .29 is the answer

I got in several flights with the Ringmaster/.29 combo in very good flight conditions. The plane was more stable than ever and had lap times of 4.9 sec. at 2 cycle and 5.5 at 4 cycle. My stoodge release line was three pieces of cotton string I tied together several years ago. It always annoyed me at the distance the pin would snap back when I pulled the string to release the plane. Many many years ago I bought a set of control lines made from kevlar. They are very wide and thick compared to cables. I only used them on one flight and the drag of the lines is extreme. I remembered those lines the other day and used it to replace the old cotton, stretchy string on the stoodge. Now I just gently pull the line and the plane is off. Good move. I saw a line winder and made one of those also. a piece of aluminum a piece of dowel and two screws. It works real well and a lot faster. I'm in the process of changing the leadout position on the Ringmaster. I made a better set of adjustable leadouts but I am slowly getting back to where they were in the beginning. The Ringmaster isn't that stable, it seems to wander in level flight so I have to keep after it a lot. It will climb after leveling off after a maneuver. I like to fly the Twister after the Ringmaster as the Twister is a lot more stable all around. I'm starting work on an old "Chief" from plans I got from England. The airfoil is shaped like a polywog and is a lot of trouble to get covering to stick down to the ribs as they are undercambered on both sides. I'm going to change the airfoil to the one used on the Nobler.

If bigger is better, smaller may be boss.

I went to my r/c club flying field and found it usable for control line planes. I fired up the Ringmaster and it didn't run too well. I got a couple short flights in and concluded the .40 was too powerful. Mid 4 sec. laps. I flew the Twister and made a leadout location adjustment. I think it needs another adjustment but I'll fly it first to see. When I got home I removed the .40 and
installed a Fox .29. It has the same mounting bolt pattern as the .35. I had to fit a muffler to it and that took an hour as it isn't made to use one. An O.S. .25 r/c muffler works fine on it. Maybe I'll get in some more flights in the morning before the temp. gets too high.

More power for the Ringmaster

I must have 20 differant size r/c engines. Most of them are in an r/c plane. Makes sense. The forums I've been following sometimes refer to an r/c engine in a c/l plane. Why not. I have a well used, strong running Fox .40 r/c hanging around and the Fox .35 in the Ringmaster has been running very well. Why not remove it and install the .40? I give up, why? Because.... If something is working well add more power and it should work.... well.The .40 has a larger case where it mounts so I had to relieve the mounting area somewhat. In order to maintain interchangability I made two 1/8 inch spacers that move the engine out away from the fuse. so I wouldn't ruin the motor mounts. I bolted the spacers to the fuse. and then bolted the engine to the spacers. Now by removing four bolts I can change engines if t he .40 doesn't pan out. My preferred flying site is a grade school yard that has summer school in session. Crumb grabbers everywhere. The fall back site is a ball field quite near some houses so I can't fly as early as at the school. The temperature and humidity are quite high right now so I will have to wait for a break to test the Ringmaster. I put a pushrod anchored to the sheet landing gear leg up to the carb. to hold it wide open. After getting the c/g moved forward the Twister is flying better than ever. It still is light at 44 ounces. I wonder how an Enya .45 SS would work? Well, I'll bet.

More changes

After flying the P-51 and Twister I had to make some wholesale changes. The Twister flew like it did new but that was not steady. It acted like it was tail heavy, quite jumpy in level flight. Unlike the P-51 which was rock steady inlevel flight. I found an old nylon control horn that is over an inch long. I removed the bolt and installed the horn on the flaps. The pushrod from the bellcrank went into the top hole and the elevator pushrod went into a hole that gave very close to 1 to 1 deflection. Close to 30 degrees up and down for flap and elevator. I found the c/g about where it should be but I wanted to move it further forward. I found a pair of 3 inch wheels and replaced the 2 inch with them. That moved the c/g slightly forward. Very old Perfect wheels. Then after much figuring and head scratching I installed a very old Veco 2 1/4 inch aluminum spinner. The Fox prop shaft is quite short and won't accept a plastic spinner. All together the changes should soften the controls and have brought the c/g up to the spar. On the P-51 I had to figure out why the engine slowed way down like it did. I didn't find any dirt or debris in the fuel system. I removed the needle valve and put a piece of fuel tubing over the threads and replaced it. I made up a new tank. A 4 1/2 ounce uniflow style, wedge shape, and installed it. Hopefully this will fix the engine run. I'm not ruling out the fact that the engine is new and maybe just cranky. Muffler pressure is a possibility too. I think I'll look for an article on trimming on the Pampa site or Stuka stunt.

I flew the rebuilt and modified Twister the other day. There was a pretty strong wind, for a test flight, and the wind was boiling off some trees causing much unwanted turbulance. I used the first Fox .35 I ever bought on the model. It has to be 40 years old and hasn't been run in 39. I used the new 60 foot lines and the new stoodge. All new and untried things is a recipe for disaster. The Fox started right up but needed a glow plug change. I had a 10x6 wood Zinger prop for the test flight. 15% nitro and 28% oil Red Max worked really well. The model was very sensitive on the controls and the wind knocked the model around a lot. I didn't dare try anything but level flight because of the conditions. Lap times were 4 and a 1/2 seconds and
my homemade uniflow tank gave a consistant engine run with a slight speed up a half lap before stopping. I packed up and left after the flight. I put an APC 11x4 on to get the lap times up to the 5 second range. I also added a longer bolt to the flap horn to get the geometry back to where it was before the crash and soften the control a bit. I reduced the line spacing from 4" to 3 1/2" by raising the down line 1/2". I found that I can't move my wrist in the up control as much as I can for the down control. Some calm morning I will try the Twister again. The new stoodge worked as planned but the thin board is too flexible. As soon as I make a new one with metal hinges I'll feel better. I must get up the nerve to fly the P-51 some day too.

My old stoodge won't work with a tail wheel so I made this from a piece of 1/8" pressed paper wall board. Tape is the hinge now and a double shear thing holds it upright against the stab. I drilled two holes for the steel tent stakes to hold it in place. A tug on a string pulls the wire pin and away it goes. At least that's the plan.

I finally got the new longer control lines. Not being ready to use I had to make the ends. I made them like the instructions said but I had to make a crimp tool first. I took two pieces of 1/16" wire and a small pair of visegrips and put the copper tube between the wires and squeezed with the visegrips. It took a little practice to get the feel of the crimp.

This is a shot of the control set up. I put a pair of Robart surface deflection things on elev. and flap at 2" from the hinge line and found that up had 1 to 1 travel and down had 1 to 5/8 travel elev. to flap. So I changed it . I wanted to bring the pushrod clevis' closer to the hinge line so I made this flap horn from copper sheet. I bent it around a 4-40 bolt using a vise and vise grips. I drilled holes and with the T.L. A.R. method I installed the horn on the flap bolt with a lock nut. Control movement is closer to 1 to 1 now. I can change it if I feel the need. But what do I know.

Control line planes have always had a flap horn that served as a way to get control from the bellcrank through the flaps to the elevator. If the model didn't have flaps it didn't matter. The horn always had the holes for the clevises in a line. This method uses a bolt through the flap leading edge and two plastic horn brackets facing in opposite directions as yopu can see. I checked travel of the elevator and found it to be the same in up and down. The horn on the elevator points in the opposite direction of the flap horn and cancels out any differential travel.I have yet to try this system in flight as I'm waiting for longer lines to fly with. The model in white is the modified"Fancherized Twister". It's also the one with the new flap horn set up. I was concerned about the c/g but as I added engine and tank the c/g came out just about where it should be. The other is the profile version of Pat Johnston's P-51. This is also waiting for longer lines to come in. The color scheme is from one of the Tuskeegee airmen units of WW2.

The Fancherized and Roserized Sig Twister.

After losing the Twister in a power off one point landing and reading about the Fancherized

Twister I set about adding my two cents worth. I added two inches to the wing center

section as it was in pieces from the crash. I also added adjustable leadouts ala Fancher

article. The fuse. was made new and three inches longer as in the article. I angled the

fuse. rear down towards the fin as I didn't care for the Fancherized fuse. shape. I kept

the new fin/rudder shape though. Another bit of advice I used was to make the stab.

and elevator thicker, which I did. 1/4 inch thick. I added a 3/8 thick block to the insideof the nose for support ala article and I sanded the thing ala article too. It workedvery well. I used lite ply on the nose doublers and in the engine mounting area I pokedmany pinholes in the lite ply then applied three coats of thin CyA to harden the soft wood.I also ran the engine bearers back to the wing cutout. I used the Sig supplied three piecelanding gear wires. Not being able to leave well enough alone I added 3/8" to each wing tipfor a total wing span of 50 3/4 inches. I found that rustoleum has a spray can of lacquerclear. I put on two coats on the fuse. light sanded and brushed on a coat of thinned

spackle. I'm going to give it one more coat of lacquer and then paint. Monokote for the

wing and stab so I can use monokote hinges as the leading edges of the flaps and elevator

are hardwood dowels. I liked the picture of the 19 pointer on the forum so I plan to do

something like it.

Why is this double spacing on me? The wing looks a lot longer than it really is.

The Fancherized and Roserized Sig Twister.

More Pics.

I'm still trying to get used to this stuff. Here is a few more shots of my fleet of control line models. The P-51 was built from an article in Model Avaition mag. It is supposed to have

a full fuselage but I didn't want to take the time so I made it a profile. Too many WW2

fighter models have invasion stripes so I used a color scheme from one of the Tuskeegee

airmen units. The ones in the group photo are a Ringmaster from original Sterling plans

I got from the AMA plans service,Fox .35 power, the one with the kite shapes on the

wing is a scaled down and profile version of a "Strathmoor". A early 60's design. Fox .15.

And the half-A from hell. A copy from M.A.N. early 60's. I'm going to try to put one more

photo in here. It worked, I think. Now it's double spacing on me. The fuselages on the rack

are bottom to top, The Beachcomber, Prettner's Curare a fg/foam kit, The Sultan, The

Taurus, The Reb, The Boxer from plans from Salient Designs. Standing are the Astro Hog,

The Deception and The Panzer another f/g and foam kit. Other than the Boxer, Curare and

Panzer all were made from M.A.N. plans I enlarged out of the mag. I needed something to

do when I retired and this fit the bill nicely. Many models are legal for Old time pattern

contests and Senior Pattern contests. Luckily for me there are no contests of this type

near enough to here. All dressed up and no where to go. Ya hoo.

Flap horn set up.

A 4-40 screw through the flap with a washer under the head
and an elastic stop nut holding the screw on the flap. Two
DU-BRO 3/32 E/Z Adjust horn brackets for the bellcrank
and elevator pushrods. I've used this style with great success
on R/C pattern planes but this is the first for a double on a
u/c plane. Anyone else tried it?

Trial run

I tried to get some pictures on here but we will see.